Tools you will need:
Tool
|
Is Required
|
Comments
|
Line Wrench (12mm - think)
|
Yes
|
If you don’t use proper line wrench
you can round the steel fittings on hydraulic lines, and may need to cut them off
to install new lines. (lines are not expensive, but they will have to be shipped
from Germany and the car will need to go up on a lift – so much for DIY)
|
Metric wrenches (various sizes)
|
Yes
|
|
Metric Sockets
|
Optional
|
Would be helpful
|
Metric Torx Set
|
Yes
|
|
Screwdriver set
|
Yes
|
would be helpful
|
Torque wrench
|
|
would be helpful
|
Rachet extender
|
Optional
|
Will be VERY helpful to get into
some tight spaces
|
Needle-nose pliers
|
Yes
|
(these will be necessary to tighten
hose clamps – BMW sells a great time saving special tool which costs $230.00-I decided
to sweat it out instead)
|
Autoenginuity scan tool with BMW
Add-on - $420 shipped
|
Yes
|
(this tool is required for bleeding
the system) an equivalent tool such as GTI or Bmw DIS can be used.
|
Liquid wrench
|
Optional
|
Hydraulic lines can very difficult
to remove in certain cases. This would be step one if you have stubborn lines.
|
Propane(Butane?) torch
|
Optional
|
Hydraulic lines can very difficult
to remove in certain cases. This would be step two if you have stubborn lines.
|
Hydraulic car jack
|
Yes
|
You have to remove the wheel and
disconnect the pump from the bottom
|
Car Stand
|
Optional
|
I didn’t use one, but it’s dangerous
if you have a flimsy car jack.
|
Wheel removal tool
|
Required
|
Believe it or not M3’s don’t come
with this basic tool to remove wheel log nuts.
|
Parts you will need:
Description
|
Part Number
|
Approx Price
|
Qty
|
Comments
|
SMG Pump
|
21532229715
|
$1600
|
1
|
http://getbmwparts.com/
Thanks to a RallyGuy who is a member
on this forum my smg pump only cost me 500 bucks gently used.
|
Pentosine Reservoir Connecting
Line
|
21532282255
|
$16
|
1
|
http://getbmwparts.com/
This hose may not be required if
you successfully remove existing hose from the smg pump. Mine did not want to come
out, so I had to replace it
|
Intake manifold hose clamp
|
11617831745
|
1.60
|
6
|
http://getbmwparts.com/
These hose clamps can be reused
if you are very careful removing them. I found it easier to save time and simply
replace with brand new hose clamps.
|
Pentosine CHF11s 1L
|
81229407758
|
20
|
1
|
http://getbmwparts.com/
|
Depressurize Hydraulic system.
Remove E-Box Cover by removing
4 bolts that hold it in place


Remove Smg Pump Relay

·
Get in the car.
·
Close the door.
·
Turn on ignition
(do not start the car)
·
Press the brake pedal
·
Move selector lever
from position 0 to R or 0 to E as often as necessary to depressurize the system.
(after a while transmission will stop performing gear shifts)
·
Installation note:
once you put everything back together, do not reinsert the relay until you perform
bleeding of the system.
Disconnect Battery
Battery is located in the trunk underneath a plastic plate which
is held down by two plastic fasteners.
Remove Intake Manifold
Remove air intake plenum by removing
4 expanding fasterners. Simply pull on the central shaft using a set of pliers.

Remove Air Filter and Cover

If you have the xenon option on
your car, you will need to remove the wires that connect to the ballast and loosen
the ballast housing.
·
Lift up ballast housing
cover and move it out of the way (1)
·
Disconnect quick
connect couplers (2 & 3)
·
Loosen up mounting
bolt (4) (this is where ratchet extension comes in really handy)
·
Pry away brackets
(5 & 6) using a flathead screwdriver

·
Remove Sway Bar (there
are 4 bolts total) (1)
·
Remove Mass Airflow
Sensor (MAF) by pressing on it’s quick release couplings (2)
·
Disconnect metal
hose band (3)
·
Disconnect vacuum
hose line by pressing on the sides of the quick release coupling (4)
·
Unscrew the oil dipstick
mounting nut that secure the line to the intake manifold (5)
·
Remove air filter
cover by gently separating the hose from the intake manifold and pulling away and
up from the engine bay. (6)

·
Remove air filter
(1)
·
Remove mounting bolts
(2 & 3)

·
Remove air-filter
housing by gently tilting it and pulling it up
·
Installation note:
Please note the position of housing’s plastic mounting tabs before removing (2 &
3). They have to fit underneath the ballast plastic tabs.
Remove Microfilter

·
Unclip micro filter
cover by rotating a spring fastener (1)
·
Unclip wiring channel
cover by opening four tabs at marked locations (2) and remove the two wires running
inside the channel.
·
Unclip evaporation
line (3) by pressing on the quick connect coupling

·
Remove micro filter
(1)
·
Unscrew the four
bolts (2) using torx wrench.
·
Remove Micro filter
housing. (3)
Remove air-box

Remove six quick release hose clamps
connecting air-box cover to throttle bodies. (In order to make your job easier a
special bmw tool should be used to perform this procedure. Unfortunately, because
of the cost, I used needle nose pliers, which made the job more difficult)
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE
SHOULD YOU REPLACE OEM HOSE CLAMPS WITH ADJUSTABLE HOSE CLAMPS. DOING SO MAY CAUSE
YOUR THROTTLE TO STICK! ONLY USE OEM HOSE CLAMPS.
The following side note is optional
if you do not have the special hose clamp tool.

·
Pry off the hose
clamp by inserting a flat-head screwdriver underneath the flap.
·
Discard used hose
clamps.
Installation Note:

The quick install hose clamp has
two lock positions. The first lock position is engaged when tab (1) is inserted
into opening(1) indicated by arrows (1). In this state the ring is locked but is
not tightened. The second lock position is labeled by arrow #2, when a small sharp
tab is inserted into a smaller opening.
·
Put hose clamp into
lock position #1
·
Fit locked hose clamp
over air-box hose (six of them)
·
Fit six air-box hoses
over throttle bodies.
·
Re-attach all vacuum
and evap. Hoses back to the air-box.
·
Lock hose clamps
into lock position 2 by applying force on both ends of the ring indicated by “Tighten
Direction” arrows.
Note: if you do not fit hose clamps
prior to installation of intake manifold, your job will be increasing more difficult
as you move your way down the engine bay towards the passenger cabin. ( I learned
the hard way )
Remove Air-Box

·
Remove reservoir
supply hose by disconnecting it from reservoir tank. (The tank has a valve that
prevents liquid from spilling out. Mine did not work, and all pentosine spilled)
·
Press the red quick
ring and pull out the hose from the SMG pump. (mine was stuck and had to be cut)

·
Detach wire by sliding
up support clamp
Working underneath the air-box
cover disconnect:
·
Quick connect Hose
(1)
·
Two air-box support
bracket nuts (2)
·
Slide off tank venting
valve off of support hook
·
One more hose at
the back passenger side of intake manifold. I was unable to remove this but, it
gently came off when I pulled out the air-box. (it’s not visible in this photo –
see bottom view) (Installation was tricky and required a lot of cursing and sweating)

Bottom view shows various connectors
and hoses. Please note that #4 is easy to remove but difficult to install.
Please note: the back of the air-box
(between air-box and micro filter) has two hooks for routing a vacuum line and a
wiring harness. Those two must be put in place after air-box is re-installed.
PULL OUT THE air-box FROM THE
ENGINE BAY! J

·
Lift up the front
left side of your car (use of car stands is highly recommended – because you WILL
have to stick your head into the wheel well)
·
Remove Wheel
·
Remove Electrical
connector (1) and mounting bold (2)

·
Remove support bracket
(1) by removing bolt (2)
·
Label hydraulic lines
(3) prior to removal
·
Using a 12mm line
wrench remove hydraulic lines (3). (Torque setting is 14NM) – Note: my lines were
IMPOSSIBLE to remove without a torch. (see my write up on hydraulic line removal)
·
Detach SMG pump support
bracket by removing bolts (4) & (5)
·
Detach plug of carbon
canister located behind hydraulic lines
·
Lift out the pump
and replace with a new one. (note: my aftermarket pump came without a carbon canister
located on the back. I had to recycle the existing part.)
My Hydraulic lines were very stubborn
and no matter what I tried I could not remove them. In order to prevent having to
cut those lines and towing the car to a dealer to have new lines installed, the
last option was to heat up the hydraulic connector housing to loosen up steel line
fittings.
In order to do this, the pump needs
to be disassembled inside the engine bay.
The tool:


Secure smg pump from underneath
a car with bolt (2) as well as from the top bolt (4). Loosen up bolt 5 so that smg
pump can move freely inside the brace.

·
Remove pressure accumulator
(1) by turning bolt (2)
·
Detach pentosine
reservoir by removing 6 Torx screws holding it in place (3)
·
Photo on right shows
locations of 6 screws
·
Note: when you disassemble
the pump, fluids will pour out unless you figure out a way to siphon off the liquid
inside the pump.
·
Heat up the remaining
aluminum SMG pump housing one bolt hydraulic line at a time and try to remove the
steel fitting.
·
Note: do not expose
hydraulic lines or hydraulic line fittings to direct flame, instead concentrate
on the aluminum housing.
ASSEMBLY:
·
Assembly is the reverse
of taking everything apart, and you should have no problems.
·
DO NOT
RECONNECT THE BATTERY, TURN ON THE CAR OR REINSERT THE SMG PUMP RELAY UNTIL YOU
HAVE FILLED THE SYSTEM WITH HYDRAULIC FLUID. (running the pump dry may damage it)
·
Fill up the reservoir
with Pentosine CHF 11s and wait until all bubbles stop
·
Then add a little
bit more. (Do not overfill the tank.)
·
Re-Connect the battery
·
Perform bleeding
operation.
o
Install Autoenginuity
Scan tool software
o
Activate BMW option
(see installation instructions)
o
Turn ignition key
to ON position
o
Start application
o
Connect to SMGII
system
o
Perform the following
operations:
§
Engage Gear 1 (wait
90 seconds for light to stop blinking)
§
Engage Gear 2 (wait
90 seconds for light to stop blinking)
§
Engage Gear 3 (wait
90 seconds for light to stop blinking)
§
Engage Gear 4 (wait
90 seconds for light to stop blinking)
§
Engage Gear 5 (wait
90 seconds for light to stop blinking)
§
Engage Gear 6 (wait
90 seconds for light to stop blinking)
§
Engage Gear N (wait
90 seconds for light to stop blinking)
§
Engage Gear R (wait
90 seconds for light to stop blinking)
§
Hydraulic Pump
o
Insert SMG Pump Relay
§
Repeat Gear Operations
§
Hydraulic Pump
Since Autoenginuity documentation
is not very clear on what operations constitute the bleeding of the system, I ultimately
tried EVERY single actuation command except for Reset clutch curve.
·
Finish up assembly
·
Clean up
·
Take the car for
a test-drive

·
Do not forget to tighten the wheel. I did and almost had a heart attack.
·
Make sure the hood is firmly closed or the car will limp above 20mph.